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We here at Azrikam the price is right provides services and installations for residential and commercial locations in the Chicago metro area, also including the northern land suburbs metro area and the western land suburbs metro area

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Arlington Heights metro area Water Treatment Solutions. Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations, How do you know if you need a water filter or a water purification or treatment system? What can you do to find the best filter for your home and where do you start? We have these helpful and important steps to find the right water treatment solution for your home. We test filters and treatment systems for safety and performance to provide assurance that a certified product will do what it says it is going to do.

Step 1: Find Out What Is In Your Water

If you are wondering what contaminants may be in your water, you can start by getting a copy of your water quality report (called a CCR or consumer confident report) from your local water utility/authority (in the U.S. and some cities in Canada). If you are unable to get your report or if you have a private well, you may want to consider having your water independently tested.

Step 2: Decide What Contaminants You Want to Reduce

Once you know what contaminants are in your water, you can better find a treatment solution that is certified to address your water quality concerns.

It’s important to understand that not all filters can reduce all contaminants. Based on the water report or your water testing results, you can decide what contaminants you want to reduce in your drinking water. NSF’s contaminant selection guide will help you to locate products that are certified to reduce specific contaminants.

Step 3: Compare Options for Water Treatment

A number of water treatment solutions are available. They range from whole-house systems that treat all the water in your home, to filters for specific areas such as the kitchen faucet, to more portable solutions such as a water pitcher or even countertop filters. Some reduce only one contaminant while others reduce many.

Point-of-use (POU) systems treat the water where you drink or use your water, and include water pitchers, faucet filters and reverse osmosis (RO) systems. Reverse osmosis systems are the only NSF certified systems that reduce fluoride and nitrate; and Reverse Osmosis systems are the only ones that are NSF certified to reduce both lead and copper.

Whole-house/point-of-entry (POE) systems treat the water as it enters a residence. They are usually installed near the water meter (municipal) or pressurized storage tank (well water). Whole-house treatment systems include UV microbiological systems, water softeners or whole-house filters for chlorine, taste, odor and particulates.

Buffalo Grove metro area Toilet Replacement. Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations a toilet is giving you trouble it is easy to conclude that it needs to be replaced. While installing a new toilet can definitely be the best option for a troublesome fixture it is not necessarily the only solution. When a few repairs will be enough to solve the problem there is no reason to spend the extra money to buy a new toilet and take the time to install it. The key is knowing when to replace a toilet and when to repair it instead.

Without considering cosmetic issues there are still a few instances where a new toilet is a good idea. To help you determine when to replace a toilet take a look at some common problems that you may encounter.

Chicago metro area Tankless Water Heaters Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations

Tankless water heaters are all the rage. They appeal to everyone, from the home hunter, to the conservationist, to the comfort and convenience minded. It’s no wonder – you get better efficiency and endless hot water with a unit that doesn’t occupy much more space than a large suitcase.

These features and benefits are what most people think about when they consider exchanging their storage type water heater for a tankless. No brainer, right? After years of tankless water heater installs, we’ve found that some consumers have expectations, realistic or otherwise, that should be addressed before deciding to go tankless.

Below are four common myths that every homeowner considering a tankless water heater should be aware of.

1. Tankless water heaters are “plug & play.”

Tankless water heaters are not a simple “swap out.” Most conventional gas water heaters were not installed with a tankless retrofit in mind. In fact, your home’s gas piping, gas meter and gas line to the meter may not be sized appropriately to handle the high gas load that will be replacing the conventional storage gas water heater.

Most conventional natural-draft water heaters vent exhaust completely different than any tankless water heater, and though they are a fuel burning appliance, they do need power to operate.

When a homeowner is unhappy with a tankless water heater, it usually concerns the issues above, and managing expectations about how their tankless water heater should perform. Not all tankless water heaters are the same. An improperly installed unit may not only underperform, but be a safety hazard as well.

2. Tankless water heaters deliver hot water faster.

Somehow, “instant” has replaced the word “tankless” in the minds of many consumers. The fact is, when a tankless is taking the place of a conventional water heater in its existing location, it will not deliver hot water to your faucet any faster. If it took a long time before, it will still take a long time to get there unless that issue was specifically addressed.

Some brands will only fire up when they sense flow. In this case there can be an additional few seconds of wait time before hot water reaches a faucet. In some cases, a tankless water heater is located in a completely different location than the old water heater. The distance from the water heater to the faucet will determine the time it takes for hot water to reach the faucet.

If water does take a long time to get to a faucet, the real solution is to add a circulation system to your water’s heat source. Luckily, some tankless models are designed so that a circulation system can be added without reconfiguring piping or adding an additional buffer tank.

3. All tankless water heaters are pretty much the same.

Throughout the years, tankless water heaters have become more reliable, cost effective, and in some cases, an easier installation. Some brands are better than others for certain applications.

There are now models that offer more firepower, while keeping equipment and installation costs down. Other brands are less reliable and have very poor product support. Some will require more extensive maintenance than others, which should be considered when evaluating the cost of ownership.

From my experience, no matter the quality of the unit, if the quality of installation is poor, you will always get poor performance. So how do you find out which brands are best?

A great resource is a plumbing/HVAC company that has a good reputation and stands behind their work. Most likely, they’ll want to keep their customers happy with good service and superior products. The brands a company like this use are worth considering.

4. Replacing with a tankless water heater doesn’t require a permit or inspection.

I cannot speak for all jurisdictions, but here in the Puget Sound area they do. If you’re not sure it’s required, call up your local permitting office and ask them. They may require a mechanical permit, gas piping permit and electrical permit depending on the local jurisdiction and what was required to install the new appliance.

Remember, you are replacing a 40,000 BTU tank with something that uses up to 199,999 BTU’s of gas. It produces exhaust and carbon monoxide and vents completely different. For your safety and health it is best to follow the local authority’s requirements for permit and inspection.

Before you step up to tankless, make sure you understand the difference between fact and fiction. Seek out a reputable plumbing/HVAC company. With proper guidance you can make a well-informed decision that will hopefully meet your needs and your expectations.

Deerfield metro area Sump Pumps Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations.

Water problems in your basement that you've been ignoring, there's a good chance you're losing up to half of your home's living space. And at the cost of housing these days, that's a substantial loss. While water that collects in a basement may originate from several possible sources, almost all such problems can be corrected. And for many, the simplest solution is to install a sump pump. While a pump doesn't cure the disease, it goes a long way toward treating the symptoms. And it does the job at a price that most of us can afford.

The truth of the matter is that most basement water problems are not basement problems at all, but exterior drainage problems. So before you consider a sump-pump installation, take a good look (in the rain, if you must) at the drainage around your home. Make sure that gutters aren't clogged, that downspout extensions move roof runoff at least 4 ft. beyond the foundation and that the soil within 3 ft. of the foundation slopes away from the house.

Even if these conditions have been met, water may still accumulate in your basement. The problem may be a utility trench that invisibly channels runoff back to the house or a seasonally high ground-water table. In these cases, a sump-pump installation is a good solution.

Many new homes have a sump pit already in place, complete with a drainage-tile system under the basement floor that's designed to channel water to the pit. If your home doesn't have this feature, and your water problem affects most of the basement, a retrofit system of this type is a good option. However, it's a big job that involves removing a 24-in.-wide swath of concrete and soil from the inside perimeter of the basement, adding gravel, drain tiles and a pit and replacing the concrete.

While this isn't an impossible DIY job, it's backbreaking work. You can pay a professional $2500 to $5000 to do it for you--not necessarily a bad price, though, considering that you'll perhaps double your living space.

A more manageable approach, in the right circumstances, is to install an isolated sump pit with several feet of gravel around it. To have this system installed may cost between $300 and $500. Or, you can devote a few weekends to the job and do it yourself for the price of the pump, pipe and fittings, pit liner, gravel and cement.

This abbreviated system is most appropriate where water infiltrates only one area of the basement, or where the basement floor was poured over a gravel bed. Many homes built over the past 30 years have several inches of gravel beneath the concrete floor. The gravel was used to bring a slightly over-excavated floor back to grade. Because water seeks the path of least resistance and will migrate sideways before it moves up, moisture beneath the floor will move through the layer of gravel to a sump pit before flooding the floor.

Unfortunately, it's difficult to tell if your basement floor floats on a gravel bed. The builder of the home or a neighbor who has done similar work might know. In most cases, though, you won't know until you break through the floor. Sometimes, a few holes bored through the floor with a hammer drill will reveal the information you need.

Our installation

We had a periodic water problem in one corner of the basement that, while localized, spread mold throughout the basement area. To create our sump pit, we broke out a 4 x 4-ft. area in the corner, dug down about 30 in., installed a plastic pit liner and surrounded the liner with coarse gravel.

The upper half of the pit liner is perforated to allow water to seep in and collect at the bottom. A float-activated submersible sump pump at the bottom of the pit automatically pumps out the water when it reaches a preset level. To finish the job, we poured a new concrete floor around the pit to match the original floor.

Preparation

Before breaking through a section of concrete floor, try to anticipate what might lie beneath it. Your sewer line's location should be apparent, and you'll find an accessible cleanout fitting near a wall. Your home's main water supply line may be less obvious. If your main waterline enters the house through a wall, you should be safe. If it enters through the floor, there's a remote chance that it passes under your chosen pit location.

How will you know where the waterline is? Most service lines that are under the floor enter from the street, usually 4 to 6 ft. from the sewer pipe. If you can't estimate where the water service line might be, check with your local building-codes office. In most cases, these measurements are recorded at the time of installation.

There are several ways to break through a concrete basement floor. The economical approach is to use a heavy-duty hammer drill to bore perimeter holes every 4 in., plus additional holes within the area to be removed. After the holes are in place, break the concrete into pieces with a sledgehammer. If you use a rotary hammer, you can handle the job in a similar way and the work should go quicker.

For the cleanest-looking repair, you might consider renting a demolition saw designed for cutting concrete. Use the saw to make 1-in.-deep perimeter cuts and then break out the inscribed area. However, be aware that concrete saws generate a great deal of dust, and most installers avoid them when possible.

We opted to rent an electric jackhammer that uses 120-volt household power. If you decide to do the same thing, the rental cost should be about $30 for 4 hours. With this tool you can get through the hard part fairly quickly and with less strain. To reduce the raggedness of the cut edge, equip the jackhammer with a flat spade bit.

STEP 1: STARTING OUT

Plan to install the pit at least 8 in. from the foundation walls to avoid encountering the foundation footing. Then lay out the area of concrete floor to be removed, allowing for at least 6 in. around the pit.

Cut the perimeter with the jackhammer, then slice through the interior in 8- to 12-in. bites. When the entire area is shattered, drive the jackhammer in at an angle and pry up to loosen the first few pieces of flooring. Then, simply collect the remaining chunks of concrete and carry them away in a bucket.

STEP 2: STARTING OUT

After the concrete is removed, dig the soil from the area. Using the liner to check your progress, excavate enough soil to allow at least 6 in. of gravel all around the liner. When the top of the liner sits level with the top of your basement floor, you've dug deep enough.

STEP 3: STARTING OUT

Set the pit liner in the hole and fill the surrounding void with coarse gravel. A gravel aggregate of 3/8 to 1/2 in. in diameter will work well.

STEP 4: STARTING OUT

Add enough gravel to bring the grade 1 in. above the underside of the basement floor--3 in. below the top surface for a 4-in.-thick floor.

Then, level the gravel with a wooden float. This will place the bottom of the new concrete bed 1 in. above the original slab bed and, more importantly, 1 in. above the foundation footing. This way, water that seeps between the footing and the wall will simply travel down the 1-in.-wide gravel path to the pit.

STEP 5: STARTING OUT

With the pit liner locked in place by the surrounding gravel, it's time to cap the area with concrete. Mix one part cement, two parts sand and three parts gravel, and then add water. If you use one bag of cement, which was the amount required for our job, use about 5 1/2 gal. of water. Rough in the pour with a screed board and a wooden float, and make sure that the new concrete is packed tightly against the cut edges of the existing floor.

Finally, finish the new floor patch by smoothing the surface with a trowel. When you're done, let the concrete cure for a day or two before installing the pump and piping.

STEP 6: INSTALLING THE PUMP

Submersible pumps generally cost between $75 and $125, and several manufacturers offer good-quality units. We chose a Hydromatic V25 model (Aurora/Hydromatic Pumps Inc., 1840 Baney Rd., Ashland, OH 44805). Considering the substantial goal of this project, it's not a good idea to economize when buying a pump.

Expect your new pump to have a 1 1/2-in.-dia. threaded discharge port. Begin by threading a 1 1/2-in. PVC male adapter into the port and tightening it with pliers until it feels snug.

STEP 7: INSTALLING THE PUMP

Then, using PVC cement, glue a short, schedule-40 PVC riser into the male adapter. The length of the riser will depend on the depth of the liner--the goal is to bring the riser just above the top of the pit liner.

STEP 8: INSTALLING THE PUMP

Before setting the pump in the pit, bind its electrical cords to the riser with vinyl electrical tape or plastic electrical ties.

STEP 9: INSTALLING THE PUMP

Then, gripping the pump's support ring and the riser, carefully lower the pump into the pit liner.

STEP 10: INSTALLING THE PUMP

When the pump is resting on the bottom, check the float position. Locate the pump so that the float is several inches away from the liner and can therefore move up and down without interference. Then, install the liner lid over the riser. Some lids are slotted, like the one shown, while others require that you bore a hole for the riser to fit.

STEP 11: INSTALLING THE PUMP

With the pump in place, install a 1 1/2-in. check valve on the riser. This valve is absolutely essential because it keeps the pump motor from burning out. Without a check valve, water that is propelled up the riser would fall back into the pit each time the pump turned off. This small amount of water is often enough to activate the pump, which then runs for a few moments and shuts off again. The constant on/off sequence can quickly ruin a pump.

The valve will usually come with rubber couplings and hose clamps. Be sure to position the valve with the arrow pointing up-the arrow indicates the flow direction. Then, tighten the lower coupling over the riser with a screwdriver or a nut driver.

STEP 12: INSTALLING THE PUMP

Add a second riser section above the valve that extends into the space between the basement ceiling joists. The length of this piece will be determined by the position of a horizontal run that exits the house, so cut this piece oversize for now. Then, secure the second riser to the upper coupling of the check valve with a hose clamp.

STEP 13: MOVING OUTSIDE

Because ground-water discharge cannot be purged into the household plumbing system, piping must be connected to deliver the water outdoors. The easiest approach is to bore through the rim joist of the house and run the piping through the joist and outer wall. From there, it needs to be carried far enough from the house that water won't return to the basement.

To avoid splintering the hole and damaging the exterior siding, it's best to bore from the outside in. To locate the hole on the outside, first bore a 1/4-in. hole through the rim joist and siding from the inside. Then, install a 2-in. bit in your drill and, using the small hole as a pilot, bore the finished hole from the outside.

Alternatively, you could do the job with a holesaw, working from both sides of the wall and using the 1/4-in. pilot hole as a guide.

STEP 14: MOVING OUTSIDE

With the hole in place, slide a length of PVC pipe through the joist and bring the end near the vertical riser coming from the pump. Hold a 90-degree PVC elbow fitting against the two pipes and mark the height of the vertical riser.

Trim the riser to exact length and assemble the pipes and elbow with PVC glue. Check to make sure that the riser is plumb before moving outdoors to complete the discharge piping.

STEP 15: MOVING OUTSIDE

Once outside, cut all but 1/2 in. from the horizontal pipe that extends through the siding. Then, glue a 90-degree elbow to the end of the pipe so it points downward.

STEP 16: FINAL CONNECTIONS

How you proceed from here depends on the slope of your yard and its specific landscaping features. The goal is to move the purged water away from the house in a manner that keeps it away. In cases where the yard slopes away rapidly, the pipe can discharge onto a long splash block, much like a downspout.

In other cases, the purge pipe can be extended over the ground, or just underground, until it can terminate a safe distance away. As long as the horizontal run has sufficient slope, the pipe will drain after the pump stops and freezing shouldn't be a problem.

After the discharge line is installed, caulk the rim joist opening on both the inside and outside of the house.

STEP 17: FINAL CONNECTIONS

Use a high-grade, silicone-based caulk that's flexible enough to absorb the vibration of the pump. With the pump and all piping in place, finish the job by plugging the pump into a nearby GFCI-protected receptacle and test your work with about 5 gal. of water.

Des Plaines metro area Sprinkler Systems here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations.

Installing your own underground sprinkler system. By doing the job yourself, you can save 30 to 40 percent of the cost of a professional installation, and today's sprinkler components are easier than ever to assemble. Once your system is in place, you can program it to water your lawn on a regular schedule, and also set the startup time and watering duration.

Elk Grove metro area Sewer Line repair and Replacement here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations.

Cracked sewer pipes can be more than just a costly repair—they can result in extensive and pricey property damage and lead to serious health risks.

A sewer main line is the large pipe that carries waste water from your home to the city sewer system. If you notice a muddy area in your yard, a line of extraordinarily green growth above the location of the pipe, or if the sewer backs up into your home, these are signs of the need for sewer main repair. Before you call in a plumber for this costly job, there are a few things you'll need to know.

Cast iron pipes may suffer from corrosion, rust, and ultimately pipe breakdown.

Clay pipes often become brittle, cracking in multiple areas if improperly installed.

PVC/ABS plastic pipe may suffer cracks if water temperatures exceed rated limits for materials.

In general, any type of pipe—regardless of the materials it’s made of—can break due to extreme inner (water) and outer (ground) pressure.

Spotting the Signs of a Broken Sewer Pipe

Worried that tree roots may be destroying your lateral?

Think you may have a broken sewer pipe?

Have your pipes begun to leak unhealthy sewage under your property?

Don’t wait a moment longer to call Azrikam the price is right Plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical!

We fix cracked, broken, deformed, and collapsed sewer pipes in a fast and efficient manner. While it may be easy to tell a serious sewer pipe problem has happened in some cases, other cases may not be so obvious.

Azrikam the price is right plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical does more than just clear your drains. As full-service commercial plumbers, we can also repair or replace sewer pipes to correct a number of problems. Commercial building owners are responsible for maintaining the sewer lines connecting their premises to the city sewer main, generally to the curb or sidewalk. Drain and sewer pipes left in disrepair could cause flooding and groundwater contamination, representing a serious environmental hazard.

We here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical offers.

We specialize in residential and commercial sewer line repair, We have Topline experts in residential and commercial sewer line replacement for residential and commercial sewer line installation to correct a number of problems, including:

Average Cost to Repair a Sewer Main

Repairs for a sewer main are pricey. Homeowners can expect to pay an average of $2,885 for a sewer line repair. The first step of the repair process is for a plumber to send a video camera through the sewer pipe to inspect it. The camera allows the plumber to visualize the problem and identify the precise area in need of repair. This will ultimately save money compared to just assuming the whole sewer main went bad and replacing the entire length of pipe.

Sewer Main Problems

Sewer mains typically last for 50 years or longer. Hard water, frost, tree roots and shifting soil can damage the pipe and cause it to crack or corrode. A sewer line problem cannot be ignored, as it will only worsen and could cause significant damage to your home if not promptly and properly fixed.

Factors that Affect Sewer Main Repair Costs

When the cause of the broken sewer line is tree roots, it is possible that the tree may need to be removed in order to excavate the sewer line and repair it. Tree removal can add thousands of dollars to the sewer main repair project. If a driveway, patio, porch, sidewalk or other structure needs to be excavated and then replaced, this will also increase the cost of the project. Some cities require a permit and inspection for sewer line repair, which will also add to the project cost.

Sewer Line Replacement

If repair is not possible, it may be time to schedule a sewer line replacement. Fortunately, at Azrikam the price is right Plumbing, we take the time to explain your options, review the problem, and show you exactly how we are going to fix it. You can trust us to meet your needs and not oversell you on an unnecessary product during any replacement procedure. We can professionally recommend sewer line replacement that falls in line with your household needs and your budget.

In addition, our trenchless repair and replacement methods are less invasive than traditional methods and won’t tear up your lawn or landscaping. It’s also more cost-effective than other methods! We have repaired and replaced hundreds of sewer lines and work diligently to save you time and money in your sewer line services

Evanston metro area Overhead Sewer .Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations. There are two devices that may assist homeowners in reducing the amount of excess water in their pipes and basements:

Overhead Sewers and Check Valves

The overhead sewer system diverts sewage from plumbing fixtures on the first and higher floors to a new sewer line running above the basement floor, typically along the basement ceiling “overhead.”

An ejector pit with pump is installed in the basement to intercept sewage flowing from basement fixtures and the basement floor drain.

It pumps sewage up above the flood level. From there it can drain by gravity into the sewer service line.

Plumbing fixtures on the first floor continue to drain by gravity to the service line.

The overhead sewer system is probably the most effective, but also the most expensive option.

Precautions: The ejector pump requires maintenance and electricity to work properly. The basement is disrupted during construction. The contractor may have to run the overhead pipes through one of more basement rooms, although often they can be camouflaged.

During a power outage, the ejector pump won't work. But this only limits the use of the facilities in the basement that need the pump. The upstairs plumbing still works and the sewer is still prevented from backing up.

Although more dependable than a standpipe, an overhead sewer is typically more expensive.

A plumbing contractor must reconstruct the pipes in the basement and install the ejector pump.

Another device is: The Check Valve

Valves use a gate-like device to keep water from backing up into your basement. This usually happens due to excessive rainstorms that fill-up sewer lines and have nowhere to go.

Contact a licensed plumber to check the status of your current sewer line. Depending on your situation, the plumber may recommend the best option for you and your home.

Backwater Valve System

One option is to install a backwater valve system on the sanitary service line. A backwater valve includes a horizontal check valve designed to allow the sanitary waste to flow in one direction only. A brass metal disc is hinged to swing open as sanitary waste flows toward the sanitary main, and closes shut when waste begins to flow backwards.

Optionally, a basin is installed before the check valve where the building waste is collected, and a pump is installed to force pump the waste up and beyond the check valve, back into the sanitary line.

The concerns with a backwater valve system are maintenance and failure.

Maintenance is required annually to keep the disc hinge and assembly bolts lubricated. The pump is located outdoors and also needs to be checked annually due to weather conditions, as does its electric supply and connections.

Failures are often caused by debris in the sanitary line. A tight wad of paper material is all that’s needed to prevent the disc from completely closing – rendering the whole system useless.

Adding to the issue is the fact that the system cannot be rodded through the check valve, so any rodding needs to be performed either by removing the horizontal check valve disc, or by rodding from two separate ports (one before and one after the horizontal check valve), stopping before the rod reaches the disc.

Overhead Sewer System

The better option is usually to re-configure the system to an overhead style. Depending on the current layout, this can be performed by separating the lower level sanitary waste into a sanitary pit, and pumping the waste discharge into the sanitary system, above the sanitary head or high water level.

In this system, the sanitary pit and pump are installed indoors so less maintenance is required, and there is nothing installed in the service line that has potential to get stuck or obstruct the line.

There are specific requirements based on the configuration and condition of the existing system, as well as certain local government regulations that can hinder this type of installation, but these are usually minor obstacles. The biggest concern with this system is the specific layout of the existing sanitary system, and the space needed to install the sanitary pit inside the building.

If you have been experiencing back-ups due to sanitary system flooding, there is a way to protect your home. To better understand your options and to receive an analysis of your sanitary system configuration, please call us to schedule an appointment. There is no charge for the analysis.

Glencoe metro area Gas Lines repair and installations. Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations

Gas and Water Line Repair, Replacement and Installation

Gas Line Repair, Replacement & Installation When it comes to the safety of the gas lines supplying your home, you should trust only a licensed, professional plumber

Azrikam the price is right plumbers repair, inspect, install and replace water lines and gas lines to assure they’re safe and efficiently serving your home. Plant roots, shifting soil, weak seals and corrosion can damage pipe lines over time. It's important to fix and repair tiny gas leaks before they can become major broken pipe lines that will cause damage inside your home. We're experts for newer homes as well as vintage homes.

Gas line plumbing repair and installation: Gas Line Repair

Natural gas is one of the most common and affordable forms of energy to residential consumers. Although relatively safe and very efficient, consumers of natural gas should be aware of possible hazards to better protect their homes and families.

Gas Line Leaks. Gas line leakage is rare, but can be extremely dangerous. Natural gas buildup in an enclosed area can cause illness or even an explosion. Gas pipe leaks can also happen outside the home and are equally as dangerous. Before doing any job that requires digging outdoors, homeowners should call their local utility company to identify and mark the gas lines before digging begins.

Natural gas has a “rotten egg” odor that’s been added to warn us of a leak. If you smell this distinctive odor in your home, please do the following:

Do not use your cell phone until safely out of the house.

Shut off gas valves at your home.

Do not turn on or off any electrical appliances.

Do not smoke or use any open flame.

Do not attempt to locate the leak.

Get a safe distance away from the house, and then call 911 and the utility company.

If a natural gas line is damaged when digging outside, call your local utility company immediately. Do not attempt a gas line repair.

Preventing gas leaks in the home is as easy as scheduling regular gas line inspections and ensuring proper installation of gas lines by licensed professionals.

Gas Line Installation & Repair

Natural gas is a fantastic and efficient way to power most of the appliances in your home. Installing gas lines is one of our specialties at Len The Plumber. You’ve come to the right place, if you need us to install a gas line in your home for any appliance including:

If you approve the work, we’ll get it done the Same Day! And we always provide upfront written estimates. If you live in the Chicago metro area and need us to install gas lines, don’t wait – call Azrikam the price is right Plumber heating today!

At Azrikam the price is right HVAC plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical company our gas line technicians services all Chicago metro area and northern suburbs metro area and western suburbs metro area,

Emergency Gas Line Repair

Many people think the most important part of their plumbing system is the water flowing through the pipes. But as it turns out, that’s only half the story! The natural gas that you use to power your appliances and heat your home is also a part of your plumbing system – one that needs to be carefully maintained!

A gas leak is one of the most dangerous things that can happen in your home. The gas company will add a “rotten egg” smell to the natural gas going into your home, so if you smell it, get out immediately and call 911. Once the gas has been shut off and the emergency has passed, call Azrikam The price is right Plumbing and heating company for gas line repair!

We offer Same Day Service, 7 Days a Week. Unlike sink faucet leaks, gas leaks are not things that can be ignored – you should have gas line repair right away when you need it. At The price is right Plumbing and heating company, we specialize in matching the right plumber to the right job and all of our service trucks are kept fully stocked.

Installing gas lines requires licensed professionals. If you live in the chicago metro area and need us to install gas lines or repair them, call one of our friendly customer service reps today. We’ll help you get the problem fixed fast!

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Carbon monoxide is a potentially harmful by-product of using natural gas. When inhaled, this toxic gas can be very harmful. Unfortunately, carbon monoxide is completely odorless and colorless, making it almost impossible to detect on your own. Exposure to carbon monoxide can cause flu-like symptoms, as well as headaches and dizziness. Anyone experiencing these symptoms should get out of their home and call 911 immediately.

To reduce the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning: Install carbon monoxide detectors in multiple areas of your home. Inspect the vents, flues, and chimneys of all gas water heaters, furnaces, and fireplaces for proper ventilation of exhaust. Never heat the house with your gas oven. Never sleep in a room heated by a gas or kerosene space heater without proper venting.

What Causes Gas Leaks?

Gas leaks most commonly come from faulty piping. Pipes run all over a house, depending on the number of appliances running off gas. As time passes, the seals used to keep the pipes air-tight weaken or break altogether, allowing the gas to leak. Older pipes can sometimes have problems depending on how much exposure they have to water or weather. Most of the time, problems come from seals, though.

Poor ventilation can also contribute to gas leaks. Although most people worry about the actual gas used to heat or run appliances, sometimes it’s the byproducts – which is usually carbon dioxide, but can include other gases – that cause the problems. Poor vents or malfunctioning fans can allow that gas to leak into a home.

What Are Signs You Have A Gas Leak?

The first and most notable sign of a gas leak is the smell of rotten eggs. However, not all gases have odors or even colors. Carbon monoxide is a good example of this. Listen for blowing or hissing sounds in areas of the house that has gas running to them. Monitor houseplants or other areas inside and outside that might have a lot of leafy green vegetation for discoloring. There may also be bits of dirt and dust blowing about, or water bubbling, which indicates the possibility of a gas leak.

Another sign of a gas leak, unfortunately, are the symptoms people will have if they’re inhaling too much gas. Carbon monoxide poisoning includes symptoms such as headaches, dizziness, vomiting, confusion, nausea, fatigue, and breathing difficulty. If you notice any of these signs, leave the premises immediately and contact emergency services. If a gas leak is left unchecked, it can result in serious health risks including death in some instances.

What Are Professional Leak Detection Techniques?

One way professionals can detect gas leaks is through the use of Infrared (IR) detection equipment, sometimes called FLIR cameras. The FLIR cameras allow people to see where colorless, odorless gas may be escaping.

Another type of detection method includes Mid- and Long-Wave Gas detection cameras. These cameras help technicians find leaks by scanning for the wave signatures produced by specific gases, including natural gas and carbon monoxide and dioxide.

Additionally, the use of basic tools such as water can help in the leak detection process. Sometimes technicians will moisten gas lines looking for bubbling which in turn will signal gas escaping.

What Should You Do In The Event Of A Gas Leak?

If there is a gas leak at your residence, the first thing you should do is leave the area, no matter the severity. Do not try to locate the leak directly, nor use any electronic devices near the area. Do not use open flames either as a spark can ignite any gas present in your home.

Call Azrikam the price is right plumbing and heating company immediately. Our technicians are highly skilled in gas leak detection services and can provide you with expert attention in no time! Additionally, our staff is available for emergency plumbing solutions so you can rest assured knowing we will have an expert solution for you!

Glenview metro area Garbage Disposals .Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations. My sink is clogged.

Are you in need of garbage disposal repair? A garbage disposal or food waste disposer and waste disposal unit as they are often referred is a device, usually electrically-powered, installed under a kitchen sink between the sink's drain and the trap which shreds food waste into pieces small enough to pass through your home’s plumbing system. Because this involves a mechanical piece of equipment and is ultimately tied to your sanitary sewer or septic tank system, plumbing problems may occur. At present, some forty-seven percent of the homes in the United States utilize a garbage disposal.

Scraps of food comprise between 10% and 20% of the average household waste. There has been an increasingly problematic issue associated with the disposal of leftover food, as it relates to, municipal waste disposal, public health concerns, sanitation and environmental problems. If you treat food waste as a liquid (since it is roughly 70% water), then modern wastewater plants can more effectively process the organic solids, which is an environmental boost. This also minimizes the amount of waste that will eventually end up in the landfill, decomposing and generating methane gas. Methane gas is thought to be a major contributor to global warming and is some twenty-one times more toxic carbon dioxide. Some steps that you can take include:

Cleaning Your Garbage Disposer

Foul odors can occur from a buildup of food debris within the disposal.

Try these steps to eliminate the odors:

Garbage Disposal Plumbing The garbage disposal may be one of the most misused appliances in any home. Few people realize that garbage disposals are only designed to handle light food residue that is rinsed from plates and cooking utensils before they go into the dishwasher. Here at azrikam the price is right plumbing and heating company our service calls involve garbage disposal repair.

Large quantities of food and debris going into disposers can overwhelm them and clog the kitchen sink drain. Few things are more frustrating than a kitchen sink that won't drain, Here at azrikam the price is right plumbing and heating company .We have topline specailists that are experts at kitchen drain cleaning. We'll also repair or replace your broken garbage disposal and get your sink back to normal in no time.

Garbage Disposer Stops Working

In the event your disposer ceases to work, you can check the reset button. The garbage disposal has an overload protector that senses if the motor is overheating and shuts it off. If your disposer cuts off during operation, it may be this broken electrical connection. The best thing to do is:

• Turn the disposer switch off.

• Do not put hands or objects down drain.

• Make sure the appliance is plugged in securely at the outlet.

• With power switch turned off, press reset switch on front or bottom of the garbage disposer.

• Restart disposer by turning on power switch.

Looking to repair your garbage disposal yourself?

If your garbage disposal hums but won't operate properly, there may be a simple fix. Follow these steps:

Press the reset button located on the bottom of the disposer. If this doesn't work, turn off the power switch and shine a flashlight into the drain.

Look for a foreign object such as a coin, plastic bread tie or staple.

Remove the item with pliers or a grasping tool. It is dangerous to put your hand inside a garbage disposal.

Look to see if your disposer has a hex key jam clearing tool under the sink or taped to the disposer.

Check for a slot at the bottom of the disposer where the tool can be inserted and turned back and forth to clear the jam.

If you do these 6 steps and its still not working call

Azrikam the price is right HVAC plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical company today at 847 409 8699

Harwood Heights metro area Flood Control .Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations

Why Your Basement Floods

There are several reasons why a basement might flood, including an inadequate or broken sump pump, an improperly sized sump pit, or problems with your sewer line. The worst floods, however, occur when a main city sewer backs up into your home. That’s right. When the main city sewer fills to capacity, its contents become pressurized, and often the path of least resistance leads directly into your basement.

As anyone who’s had three feet of sewage water in the basement will tell you, the results can be catastrophic. from a backed-up city sewer.

Azrikam the price is right plumbing HVAC heating air conditioning and electrical company

We’ll send one of our professionals to your home at no charge to determine the specific nature of the problem and design a solution to your basement flooding problems.

We offer a wide array of options from basic sump pump installation to Tramco flood control systems to Trenchless Sewer Repair. You can read more about each option below. But rest assured, whatever the reasons for your basement flooding, we’ll find the best solution for your particular needs and your budget.

Tramco Flood Control Systems

When it comes to a flooded basement, nothing says peace of mind quite like a Tramco flood control system. Manufactured right here in Chicago since the 1950’s, the Tramco flood control systems are built for Chicago homes with Chicago weather in mind.

These systems can be installed inside or outside of the home. They are reliable, maintenance free, and come with a 10-year parts and labor warranty. The system uses a heavy-duty pump inside of an aluminum encasement, and a system of check valves. This allows for your waste to drain out to the main city sewer while ensuring that no city water or sewage backs up into your home – even during the most intense rain storms.

Double Check Valve Flood Control System

Another way to prevent a flooded basement is to install a Double Check Valve flood control system. These systems are installed outside of your home, typically in the front yard. A concrete basin or vault is installed over the sewer line. Inside of this vault, an ejector pump and a couple of check valves work to ensure that the flow of your sewer line is directed away from your house.

During heavy rain, when the pressure from the city sewer pushes sewage and water back into your pipes, the check valves close, blocking the flow. During this time, any waste draining out of the house, will drain into the vault. Once the pressure from the city sewer recedes, the ejector pump pumps the contents of the vault out into the street.

Why Your Basement Floods

There are several reasons why a basement might flood, including an inadequate or broken sump pump, an improperly sized sump pit, or problems with your sewer line. The worst floods, however, occur when a main city sewer backs up into your home. That’s right. When the main city sewer fills to capacity, its contents become pressurized, and often the path of least resistance leads directly into your basement.

As anyone who’s had three feet of sewage water in the basement will tell you, the results can be catastrophic.

Backed-up city sewer.

What You Can Do To Prevent Basement Flooding

Call The Scottish Plumber, or contact us here. We’ll send one of our professionals to your home at no charge to determine the specific nature of the problem and design a solution to your basement flooding problem.

We offer a wide array of options from basic sump pump installation to Tramco flood control systems to Trenchless Sewer Repair. You can read more about each option below. But rest assured, whatever the reasons for your basement flooding, we’ll find the best solution for your particular needs and your budget.

Tramco Flood Control Systems

When it comes to a flooded basement, nothing says peace of mind quite like a Tramco flood control system. Manufactured right here in Chicago since the 1950’s, the Tramco flood control systems are built for Chicago homes with Chicago weather in mind.

These systems can be installed inside or outside of the home. They are reliable, maintenance free, and come with a 10-year parts and labor warranty. The system uses a heavy-duty pump inside of an aluminum encasement, and a system of check valves. This allows for your waste to drain out to the main city sewer while ensuring that no city water or sewage backs up into your home – even during the most intense rain storms.

Typical Tramco Flood Control Installation

“Had your Tramco flood control installed recently. Everyone around me had their basement flood. My new system kept me dry and very happy. I did get some seepage but, after 7 inches of rain I would have needed a boat to go in my basement. I am so happy with my new system. I wish I would have done it years ago and saved countless hours of cleaning and throwing crap out. Thanks again for a great and reliable system”. J.C. Des Plaines, IL

Double Check Valve Flood Control System

Another way to prevent a flooded basement is to install a Double Check Valve flood control system. These systems are installed outside of your home, typically in the front yard. A concrete basin or vault is installed over the sewer line. Inside of this vault, an ejector pump and a couple of check valves work to ensure that the flow of your sewer line is directed away from your house.

During heavy rain, when the pressure from the city sewer pushes sewage and water back into your pipes, the check valves close, blocking the flow. During this time, any waste draining out of the house, will drain into the vault. Once the pressure from the city sewer recedes, the ejector pump pumps the contents of the vault out into the street.

Overhead Sewer Conversion

Another way to prevent municipal sewer back-flow into your home is to convert your existing gravity sewer to an overhead sewer line. This basically raises your sewer pipe to above ground level at the house and ensures that even a pressurized city sewer can’t reach that level. Any plumbing in the basement is connected to an ejector pump and pumped up into the overhead sewer. Any plumbing above basement level continues to drain by gravity.

Highland Park metro area Faucets repairing and installation .Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations

Our technicians services all chicago metro area and northern suburbs metro area and western suburbs metro area.

Replacing a faucet has never been easier, now that you have Azrikam the price is right plumbing company. Whether you want to get rid of a broken faucet, or whether you’re ready for a set of modern fixtures, there’s no better team to call for all your chicago metro area faucet repair & installation needs. Our technicians have repaired and replaced countless faucets from every manufacturer in the market, which is why you’ll never find a faster or more professional team for the job.

Replace Your Bathroom Faucets for a Quick Visual Update

Nothing dates a bathroom like an old faucet. If you’re not ready to replace all your tile with granite or flagstone, a brand new faucet is the easy way to give a bathroom a visual upgrade with real impact. By tearing out that chipped chrome faucet and putting in a modern stainless steel, brass, or other contemporary design, you can breathe life back into a bathroom for a fraction of the cost of a full remodel.

Replace Your Kitchen Faucet for Convenience & Style

The right kind of kitchen faucet can make cooking and cleanup a breeze. Our plumbers can quickly and easily help you choose and install a modern faucet with a corrosion resistant finish, a convenient pull-out head, and a stain-free shine. We can help you find a faucet to match your existing hardware, install one that you’ve already picked out, or anything in between. We can also install additional hardware, such as flush-mount soap dispensers and insta-hots, that match perfectly and look great.

We Can Repair or Install Any Brand of Faucet

Call Azrikam the price is right plumbing HVAC heating air conditioning and electrical company for your Faucet Repair & Installation Needs?

Our team has been serving the Chicago land area and the northern and western suburbs for more than 2 decade, and we’ve seen the same customers for over 20 years. That’s because smart homeowners know that no other plumbing and heating company that respects their time, sticks to their estimates, or treats their business as seriously as we do. We work hard to bring you the most trouble-free plumbing services for every job we do, from the smallest faucet repair job to the biggest trenchless sewer replacement. Call us today for all our service needs, and we’ll work hard to earn your business again and again.

Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical company We specialize From the kitchen to the bathroom, and even the tub, your faucets are a focal point of the home that everyone ends up using. When you’re looking for a plumbing company that can get your faucets taken care of quickly, give Azrikam the price is right plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical company at 847 409 8699 We provide faucet repair and faucet installation in Chicago metro area and northern and western suburbs metro land area. We'll always strive to do our very best no matter what the job is. Our master plumbers have the skills and experience to either fix that old faucet of yours or replace it with a brand new one that’ll fit your needs

Common problems include worn or misaligned washers which stop the valve from properly closing, resulting in a steady dripping. More modern faucets employ a pair of ceramic discs that, when pressed together, impede the flow of water. Many times, these faucets can be repaired with a simple cleaning and replacement of any worn or damaged seals. In other instances, however, replacing the entire cartridge and disc assembly is necessary. Whatever the ideal solution, we will always work to minimize cost without sacrificing the quality of our workmanship. call Azrikam the price is right plumbing heating air conditioning and electrical company today at 847 409 8699 ,We are here for you

Kenilworth metro area floor Drain Cleaning. Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations

Floor drain cleaning

Many homes have floor drains in their basements, laundry rooms, garages and patios to keep excess water from flooding and causing damage. Because basements are the bottom-most parts of houses, floor drains are especially common in them, since rain and sewer water can so easily flow downward and flood basements. Like drains you may find in your sink or bathtub, floor drains are equipped with traps underneath. These traps should be kept full of water to prevent sewer gases and odors from escaping into the room.

The most common issue with floor drains is simply that they or the traps can become clogged with dirt and debris. If you notice your floor drain isn't working, We here at azrikam the price is right plumbing HVAC heating air conditioning and electrical company can help you clear away whatever is causing the backup. He or she will also be able to provide you with maintenance tips and advice to keep clogs from forming in the future.

Lincolnwood metro area sump pumps. Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations.

A sump pump is a submersible pump that sits at the bottom of a sump pit, which is typically installed at the lowest point in your basement or crawl space. Ground water surrounding your home's foundation is channeled into a perimeter drain system installed at the base of the foundation. Water finds its way into the perforated drainpipes and is quickly diverted to the sump pit. The sump pump, which is triggered by a float switch, removes the water by pumping it to the nearest storm drain, dry well or detention pond. A sump pump turns on only when water inside the sump pit reaches a pre-determined level. If you haven't already lived through a flooded basement you probably know someone that has. Even a little bit of water seeping into your basement can cause extensive damage.

Besides the obvious damage that to your belongings, water damage can also cause damage to your foundation, plumbing system, and your heating and air conditioning systems. This type of damage can lead to costly, time-consuming repair or equipment replacements and could negatively affect the value of your home for many years to come.  

A sump pump could save you thousands of dollars! Sump pumps pump out water before the water level reaches the floor level. As groundwater levels rise, it is diverted into a crock, where it can be pumped out away from your home. When a storm passes through, often times power outages follow. In the event of a power outage, homes are left without a functioning sump pump increasing the risk of flooding. Make sure your home is protected by having a power system ready to go when you need it most!

Although you can pick up a sump pump at a local hardware store, we caution you in doing so. The needs of your home, the area you live in (local support structures), and local weather patterns have a big impact on the type of system you should have installed. If you have an incorrectly sized pump, or if the pump is not installed properly, you will most likely have problems later on. A sump pump that is too large will be over worked and the system's life span will be negatively affected. A sump pump that is too small, may not have enough power to adequately pump the water - not only will this lead to early system failure but it could also increase your risk of flooding.

Lincolnwood metro area Sewer Camera Service and Pipe Locating .Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations.

Trusted Sewer Camera Inspection and Location. Tree roots have a way of growing into faulty or weak locations in the sewer line. Given enough time they can establish a root system inside the sewer line that is virtually impossible to remove without excavation. These root systems can grow inside the sewer lines for sometimes as many as 50 years or more without being detected. By that time the problem is way too extensive for any type of sewer snaking to do any good at all. Usually after 10 to 15 years, the problem will become evident and require a regular rooter plan in order to keep the sewer line in service and flowing properly.

This is a progressive type of problem that will only get worse and over time and will eventually require excavation and repair. Of course, now you will need the best plumbing experts and Topline professionals who have specialized and have the right equipment needed to provide an accurate diagnosis and do the necessary locating, excavation, repairs, and back fill.

We here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing HVAC heating air conditioning and electrical company use state of the art Ridged See Snake equipment that is built for plumbers who require only the best. Our push rod is 200 feet long, so we can get all the way out to those hard to reach sewer connections, even if we need to access the sewer line from a roof vent. Our viewing monitor is a full color battery powered unit that is complete with a memory card call 847 409 8699

Morton Grove metro area Water Heater installations and Pipe Repair . Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations

BOILER INSTALL

Shut off the gas by turning the handle a quarter turn. In the “off” position, the handle is perpendicular to the pipe

If the “isolation” valve above your water heater is a gate valve we recommend that you replace it with a ball valveBe sure to choose a “fullport valve.” Gate valves often leak or won't close tightly. To replace the valve, you'll have to shut off the water at the main valve (usually near the meter). That means your whole house will be without water until you install the new valve. If you already have a ball valve or if you choose to leave the old gate valve in place, you can simply shut it off. That way the rest of the house will have cold water while you work (toilets will still work!).

With the water and gas off, drain the water heater. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, route it to a floor drain and open the drain valve. To allow air into the hot water lines and speed up the draining process, go to the highest faucet in the house and turn on the hot side only (on single-handle faucets, push the lever all the way to the left).

Disconnect the gas line at the union Then disassemble the threaded “tee” and “drip leg” and remove the nipple from the water heater gas control valve. Don't throw them away—you'll need them for the new water heater. If your gas line is copper or a flexible supply line, just unscrew the nut.

To disassemble the vent piping, remove the sheet metal screws. Wear gloves; the ends of the metal piping are sharp. You can reuse the vent pipes if they're in good shape. But if you find even slight holes, cracks or corrosion, toss them into the trash. New pipe is inexpensive and leaks can allow deadly carbon monoxide to build up in your home.

cut the copper water lines with a tubing cutter If you have copper corrugated water lines, simply disconnect the nuts at the water heater. If you have galvanized steel pipes, disconnect unions just as we did with the gas union . Also unscrew the blow tube from the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve. You may be able to reuse it on the new water heater.

At this point, the old heater should have drained enough so it can be moved off to the side (with a helper). If the heater isn't draining fast enough, sediment may be clogging the valve. Allow it to drain as long as possible and then move the heater outside so you can remove the drain valve from the tank.

Install new valves

Reconnect the water. Install new valves first so you can turn on the water to the rest of the house. Then install nipples, followed by threaded fittings and “stubs” of pipe. Hold the final section in place to mark the length.

Set the drain pan into place with the opening facing the floor drain. Get someone to help you lift and set the heater in the pan. If you're replacing the isolation valve, solder on the new ball valve next.

crew dielectric nipples into the new water heater. These plastic-lined nipples reduce corrosion and increase water heater life. Some water heaters come with dielectric nipples already installed (buy a set if yours doesn't have them). Be sure to coat the threads with pipe thread sealant or wrap with Teflon tape. Next, solder female threaded copper pipe fittings to short lengths of copper tubing and set them aside to cool. Tighten the cooled fittings onto the nipples. Then add short sections of pipe below the valves and make the final connections with “slip” couplers

You must use slip couplers—standard “stopped” couplers won't work. For tips on soldering copper pipe, search for “solder” above.

Thread a “blow tube” onto the T&P valve. If the old blow tube is too short, you can use 3/4-in. galvanized steel pipe or copper pipe (along with a male threaded fitting). If you use galvanized pipe, cut off the threads on the bottom to prevent someone from capping off the blow tube if the T&P valve leaks.

Connect the vent pipe to the hood with sheet metal screws. Never use a reducer, even if the hood's opening is smaller than the vent pipe. Snap the new draft hood onto the water heater and secure it with sheet metal screws. Check the installation manual for the recommended diameter vent pipe for your new heater. If the recommended vent pipe diameter is larger than the vent hood opening, don't install a reducer. Measure a straight section of new galvanized vent pipe to rise as high as possible before you install the adjustable elbow (the higher the rise, the better the draft). On any horizontal sections of vent, make sure the pipe slopes down toward the water heater 1/4 in. per foot of pipe. Bend out small sections of the pipe and attach it directly to the vent hood with screws.Then continue installing new vent pipe sections and connect to the flue. Most plumbing codes require a minimum of three screws for each vent pipe joint. For tips on cutting metal venting, search “sheet metal” above.

Reconnect the gas. Hold back the control valve to avoid damaging it. Then screw the drip leg into the tee.

Apply gas-rated pipe thread sealant or tape (don't use standard white Teflon tape) to the gas nipple and then Assemble the tee and drip leg using the same two-wrench technique. Read it into the new gas control valve. Tighten the nipple using two pipe wrenches

If the old section of pipe below the union no longer fits, you'll need to measure for a new nipple .Make sure you assemble and tighten the gas union before you measure the length for the intermediate nipple. Add 3/4 in. to 1 in. to this measurement and buy a new nipple. When the gas connections are complete, turn on the gas and check for leaks You can buy leak detector in a convenient spray bottle ($3) or mix your own solution (one part dish detergent, two parts water). Open the water valves and an upstairs faucet and fill the tank. Leave the faucet open until water flows out. Then shut it off and check the new water connections for leaks. Open the gas valve and light the pilot light following the manufacturer's instructions. You're in for a pleasant surprise with your new water heater—manufacturers have done away with the old “match-lit” pilot system. Instead of igniting the pilot with a match or lighter, you just push a button.

When the burner fires up, test for “backdrafting,” which can allow deadly carbon monoxide into your home. Close all doors and windows and turn on kitchen and bath exhaust fans. When the burner has been running for at least one minute, move an incense stick around the draft hood. The smoke should be drawn up into the vent. If not, the exhaust may be entering your home. Turn off the gas and call in a professional plumber.

Finally, set the thermostat to a safe temperature. (For help, search for “water heater temperature” above.) In about two hours, you'll have enough hot water for a well-deserved long shower.

PIPING AND REPAIRING WATER TANK INSTALLATION

Local Code Requirements

You'll find lots of accessories for your new water heater at the home center. Some are required by local codes; others are just good ideas. Plumbing codes vary, so check with your local inspector.

1. Gas shutoff valve

All codes require a gas valve near the water heater. If you have a “grease-pack” valve, see "Old Gas Valves Can Leak" section above.

2. Earthquake straps

These straps prevent a water heater from tipping over and are required in earthquake-prone areas.

3. Flexible gas line

A flexible gas line can withstand movement and is usually required in earthquake-prone areas. They're easier to connect than steel pipe, but they're not allowed everywhere, so check with your inspector.

4. Drip leg

Any dust or grit in the gas line falls into this short section of pipe before it can reach the water heater's control valve. The required length of the drip leg varies.

5. Isolation valve

All codes require a valve on the cold water line. Though not required by codes, a second valve on the hot line makes future water heater replacement easier.

6. Flexible water lines

These flexible lines withstand movement and are required in earthquake zones. But you may want to use them just because they're easy to install.

7. Overflow pan

Most plumbing codes require a pan and drain pipe in locations where a leak can cause damage. But installing a drain pan is a good idea for any location.

8. Expansion tank

Some codes require an expansion tank to absorb the pressure created when heated water expands.

9. Blow tube

The T&P valve releases pressure, and a “blow tube” directs the scalding hot water toward the floor. The required distance between the blow tube and floor is usually 18 in. or less.

Mount Prospect metro area Gas Dryer and Electric Dryer repair and installation

Here at Azrikam the price is right plumbing, heating ,air conditioning and electrical company servicing repairing replacing and installations.

Step 1 - Turn Off the Gas and Electricity

You need to turn off the main gas supply right at the meter first. If the supply pipe has a cap, you will need a pipe wrench to remove the cap on the gas pipe where it comes out of the wall. Also, if the gas supply has been installed with the wrong size shutoff valve, you will need to use your pipe wrench to hold the pipe so it doesn’t turn while you remove the shutoff valve.

Before doing any repairs or before doing a new install, the power should always be turned off as well. Shut the power off right at the breaker box.

Step 2 - Install the Connections for a Gas Dryer

The instructions for the installation of the gas connection parts for your gas dryer should be included with your gas dryer installation kit. If you are unsure, you should always contact your gas provider. Most providers offer reasonable installation fees.

Step 3 - Inspect the Vent Hole

Check your vent hole on your gas dryer to make sure it matches the vent hole in your home. If it doesn’t you will need to cut a new dryer vent hole before proceeding

Step 4 - Clean Up

Wash and dry the floor where the gas dryer is going to sit and its immediate surroundings. Do this after you inspect the vent hole just in case a new one must be cut so that any debris can be cleaned up as well.

Step 5 - Put Pipe Dope On

Put the pipe dope on the threads; then, take your stainless steel connector and screw it to the pipe.

Step 6 - Check for Leaks

Once the dryer gas lines are hooked up, check for leaks. Mix 50 percent water with 50 percent liquid dish soap. Put the solution on the gas connections you have just installed and then turn on the gas. If you see bubbles, it means you have a leak. Tighten and test again until the leak is gone.

Step 7 - Fasten the Vent Hose

Fasten the vent housing to the duct then place your hose clamp on and tighten. Keep your vent hose to the shortest length possible to increase the efficiency of your gas dryer.

Step 8 - Finish Up

It’s time to plug your gas dryer in. Attach the lose end of the vent hose, and then push the dryer back into place. Keep it at least three inches off the wall for circulation.

Step 9 - Turn it On

Turn the gas on and the breaker back on, and test drive your new gas dryer.

ELECTRIC DRYER INSTALLATION

Dryer cable between circuit panel and dryer plug is 10 AWG, black/red/ white/ bare. X & Y are interchangeable, red and black wires are hot (live) wires, one wire on the X, and the other on the Y. The neutral (white) and the bare ground wire MUST be on there designated connection. In the diagram above the bare ground is indicated by a green line. The bare wire should also be grounded to the electrical box (if metallic).

Be sure to use the properly rated electrical box designed to be used with a dryer receptacle. The breaker used must be a dual (double) 30 amp 220v breaker. 220v breaker meaning that the breaker must be of the type that actually connects to both bus bars in the panel, every other bus lug in the panel is on the opposite phase of the incoming power line.

DRYER RECEPTACLE & CIRCUIT

The breaker used must be a dual (double) 30 amp 220v breaker. 220v breaker meaning that the breaker must be of the type that actually connects to both bus bars in the panel, every other bus lug in the panel is on the opposite phase of the incoming power line

If you were to measure the voltage between a red lug and a black lug (they are not really those colors in the panel, just used here for explanation purposes) , you would measure 220v, if you were to measure between a black bus lug and a ground or neutral bus, you would measure 110v, and the same would hold true if you measure between a red bus lug and the ground or neutral bus.

The ground bus is a terminal block with many small holes where the bare ground (or green wire) can be connected and tightened into place with a screw.

The neutral bus is a terminal block also with many small holes where the white neutral wire can be connected and tightened into place with a screw.

A Safety Note about Breakers

A breaker designed to be used with 240v, is a dual (double) breaker that actually when mounted into the panel connects to both phases of the incoming power , in other words connects to both the red and black panel lugs (colors in illustration, your panel is not colored but will be alternating between phases from one lug to the next). Sometimes in some panels you may have a set of 4 breakers molded together and they mount in the panel over the 2 lugs , the middle 2 breakers would be the 2 30 amp breakers and the outer 2 could be 15 or 20 amp breakers for use in general purpose 120 v circuits. If you ask you local building or electrical supply depot for a dual 30 amp breaker for use in a 220v dryer circuit for this model/make breaker panel, they will be able to pick out the correct breaker for you. Please note, electrical panels are dangerous to work in, never touch any of the main bus lugs in the panel, they can kill! A breaker can be installed without physically touching the bus lugs. To be even safer you can switch the main breaker off to de-activate the panel which installing the breaker, use a second person to help with a flashlight if needed.

Also note that a 220V dual breaker has both breakers bridged so that one of the dual breakers will also trip the other side if it were to trip off.

The ground wire connects to the ground bus. Just look where all the other bare ground wires are going in the panel.

The white neutral wire gets connected to the neutral bus. Just look where all the other white wires are going in your panel. Should be on its own connection screw hole within the neutral bus.

The red and black wires from dryer cable connect to the dual 30 amp breaker, one to each of the dual breakers.

Dryer Cord - 3 wire hookup at Dryer

3 wire dryer power systems are for use with existing ungrounded dryer receptacles mainly in older homes whose wiring in years gone by was not grounded.

The center wire of this cable is the neutral wire and the outer wires are hot live wires. The hot wires connect to the outer 2 connections the power terminal block of the dryer, does not matter which is which as long as one hot is connected to each of the outer terminal connectors.

The center wire (neutral wire) of the cable goes to the center connector. Since in this case the neutral serves as a neutral and a ground connection, a jumper band (ground strap) is also connected to the center terminal and to the frame of the dryer. A green wire could also be used to connect the center connector to the frame of the dryer.

In the example in the picture the dryer doesn't have color designation on the wires, follow direction above; if the dryer cord does have colored wires, white is the neutral wire to the center connector, the red and black wires are the hot live wires which connect to the 2 outer connections of the dryer terminal block, don't forget the ground strap or green wire jumper from the center connector to the dryer frame.

Note: All new dryer circuit/receptacle installations must be grounded, which means you would be using a 4 wire dryer cord with a new circuit install.

Dryer Cord - 4 wire hookup at Dryer

A 4 wire dryer cord contains a black, red, white and green wire. The red and black wires are hot live wires and get connected to the 2 outer connectors on the dryers power terminal block, doesn't matter which is which as long as it is the outer two connectors. The green wire is a ground wire and gets connected to the frame of the dryer. The white wire is a neutral wire and must be connected to the center connector on the dryer power block. No ground strap is used in a 4 wire setup (grounded circuit). In the sample picture above the ground strap in folded over and is connected to the center connector but NO connection from it or jump to ground. The ground strap could also be removed if you wish as it is not needed in this installation.

Additonal notes

240V-120 V new branch circuits for ranges and dryers and 240V-120V existing branch circuits for ranges and dryers.

Use a 30 amp 240 volt double pole breaker in the panel. Run a 10/3wGrnd Romex cable. This cable should be rated as a 10 awg cable with a red, black, white, and bare conductor in that cable. At the panel connect the black and red wire to the 30 amp double pole breaker. Connect the white and bare wire to the neutral bars in the panel.

Run the cable concealed in crawl or in attic or in walls.

At the dryer end use a 30 amp rated 4 prong dryer receptacle. The black connects to either the outside left connecting lug and the red connects to the other outside connecting lug. The white connects to the center connecting lug and the bare connects to the green connecting lug or screw. All these connections are inside that 30 rated 4 prong dryer receptacle.

The pigtail to your dryer will have to be changed to a 4 prong pigtail with the two outside cables connecting to the two outside screws found on the connecting block inside the dryer. The center white conductor is connected to the center screw of that dryer connecting block. the bare or green conductor connects to the metal frame of the dryer on a green screw provided.

If you can move an existing three prong dryer to your new desired location then you may use this three prong receptacle still as existing only if the cable is an SE type cable with a red, black, and bare conductor. This bare conductor must wrap around the black and red wire as a protector within that SE cable. If you have a cable that is Romex but not with the identification of being an SE cable written on the side of that cable, or the bare wire does not wrap the black and red conductors, then you must upgrade that branch circuit to the new requirements using a four conductor cable and a four prong receptacle as described above at the beginning of this article.

If you are using a three prong receptacle as existing then the pigtail must be a three prong pigtail with the two outside wires of that pigtail connected to the two outside screws of the connecting block found in the dryer. The center conductor of the pigtail is connected to the center screw of that same connecting block inside the dryer. There must also be a green jumper wire installed between the center connection on that connecting block in the dryer and the metal frame of the dryer on a green screw.

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Trash Compactors

Trash compactors can be a great help in many situations. In larger households or industrial settings, trash can accumulate at a fast pace, making garbage collection expensive. Garbage bags fill up quickly and must immediately be taken out at repeated intervals, making dealing with garbage a tedious chore. Trash compactors are the perfect solution for this. A trash compactor is a motorized appliance that functions to compress trash and to help reduce how often you have to take out the trash and how much trash you actually have to get picked up by your local garbage service. A trash compactor looks like any other trash can, but is just more high-tech –it can be turned on to compress the trash inside the bag, thereby creating more space. More space means greater capacity to hold more trash.

Inside every trash compactor is a motor. When turned on, the motor functions by having a press lowered into a receptacle. As the press reaches the topmost layer of the trash, it will begin to compress it. After compressing, the press goes back to its original position. The trash compactor uses special compactor bags, specially manufactured for the appliance. They are different from the usual garbage bags that homes use. They can either be in plastic or paper forms. The paper type will have a protective lining inside it to make it sturdier and to prevent leakage of liquids. The plastic type, on the other hand, is very durable, and is usually produced in multiple plies.

The intensity of the compressing power will depend on the capacity of the motor. Typically, trash compactors will have motors that can handle 2000-5000 lbs of ram force. The motor power you will need depends on the amount of trash you generate daily.

After the trash has been compressed, you can then add more trash to it. Most models of trash compactors have features that will warn you when it is full. When given the alert, you can then change the bag with a new one. The trash can be taken out and, if your garbage services limits the number of bags or charges for more bags than normal, you can save money thanks to your trash compactor and the reduced amount of garbage you now face.

Just like any other appliance, trash compactors will need proper maintenance as well. Whenever you are cleaning a trash compactor, be sure to unplug the appliance first. Always wear gloves while cleaning its insides. Cleaning can generally be done by wiping the insides or vacuuming its inside walls. Use soapy water, preferable with anti-bacterial properties, when cleaning. Have it completely air-dried before placing a bag and using it. While this will work with most trash compactors, to be safe, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when cleaning.

Maintenance will also involve making sure that the trash compactors’ odor control system is properly functioning. Most trash compactors have charcoal filters in them, so you may need to occasionally clean or replace them. You may also attach deodorizers to the unit.

Trash compactors can easily be installed at a kitchen counter top or near the oven. They are great investments as they reduce the space for outgoing garbage and the number of times garbage has to be taken out.